Angel Bag

I hate waste!

Yesterday, I witnessed a crime! …nearly a sin!

I watched as two garbage collectors heaved several attractive pieces of furniture into the back of the trash truck!

In passing, from the car, they looked like an entertainment center and two five-foot-tall curio cabinets. They appeared to be in very-good-to-excellent condition, with the coloring of mahogany. I’m sure they weren’t made of real wood—not too much is, these days—but, nonetheless, I grieved that:

1.) someone had thought so little of nice furniture, others, and the environment, to just put out perfectly good furniture on the curb to go to the dump!

2.) somebody who could’ve used that furniture didn’t have the opportunity to get it.  …and…

3.) the earth had to swallow more of our man-made stuff.

I’m an advocate of recycling. Not only do Jerry and I recycle our cans, glass, cardboard, newspaper, etc., etc., but, I have been known to rescue good stuff from people’s trash.

Unwanted by one could be wanted by another.

Still-usable items should be donated to a thrift store—NOT discarded!

Doggone it!—it makes more sense to reuse what we can—to save our resources, to help save our earth, and—it saves money, besides!!

I admit it: I’m a scrounger! Yes, I have pulled the car over to check out what people are throwing away. Often, what I thought was something turns out to be truly trash.

HOWEV... sometimes I find cool stuff that’s worth something:

  • All of our fake silk trees in the house are rescues—two ficus trees and three palms.
  • I carted home a wooden rocking chair with a cushion stuffed with horse hair, which I believe to be an antique in the truest sense.!
  • I picked up a vintage  wood-and-iron school desk. It was so nice, I even knocked at the door to be sure they were getting rid of it.
  • Our neighbor put out a full-length, oval mahogany (real wood) mirror on a stand. I asked the neighbor what was wrong with it. He said, “Nothing. We just don’t have room for it anymore.” It now resides in our bedroom!
  • One time I rescued several pairs of clean bluejeans neatly folded in a clean cardboard box sitting by the trashcan. They fit! Lol.

Another time I spied two couch cushions in upholstery material that I really liked—in excellent condition. I stopped, pulled the covers off and left the cushions, and took my newly appropriated finds directly home to go into the washer.

One of those cushion covers was used in this project!

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“And suddenly there was with the angel a multitude of the heavenly host praising God.” Luke 2:13

I believe in angels! They are messengers of God. They are warriors sent to protect the children of God, and bring answers to prayer.

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Angel bag

Materials:

  • Angel throw pillow, bought @ $1.19/ lb.
  • Upholstery fabric, rescued, free
  • Part of a shower curtain (for the liner), bought @ $1.19/lb.
  • Strips of fabric from a throw pillow cover ($1.19/lb), left over from my Bohemian bag, no additional cost.
  • Zipper intended for jeans, Walmart, $1.47 + tax
  • Matching thread
  • Zipper pull trinket, free, thrown in when I bought a necklace

Here’s how:

I started with a throw pillow with an angel on it.

When I found it in the bins at the Goodwill Outlet, I thought, at first, I would simply open the top, take out the stuffing, and add a strap. But, when I realized how bed-sheet thin the cloth on the back was, I put on my thinkin’ cap and remembered the upholstery fabric from those couch cushions. Perfect! The colors blend well. 🙂

Use a seam ripper to pick and pull out the threads holding the pillow together. Totally remove the front. Measure the dimensions of the front to make the corresponding back piece.

Measure and cut out the back.

 

Hem the tops of the two pieces: Just turn the edges over once—about 1/2 an inch.

Lay out front and back with the wrong sides up and the hemmed tops “kissing” each other. Use Scotch tape to hold them together. I used some along the crack—in between, then, also put strips perpendicular across the crack until I thought it was holding well.

Be sure the two pieces are touching each other. When you lay the zipper on, it will be over the crack—but, no space should be between the pieces.

 

Lay the zipper, wrong side up, on top of the crack between the front and back, centered in the width.

Tape the zipper firmly into place. Pin it down.

Sew the zipper down with two rows of stitches, but don’t get so close to the teeth of the zipper that the pull doesn’t have room to go down the zipper to unzip. I got my second row of stitches too close and had to re-do.

Just sew right through the tape pieces. After the zipper is sewn on, you can remove the tape.

Fold your piece at the zipper, keeping it wrong side out, so that the front and back are together, face to face. Pin the sides only, allowing for about 1/2-inch seams. Sew your seams.

 

Measure and cut the bottom piece. This is a little tricky—at least, for me. I measured the total number of inches—the width x 2 (for front and back) plus three inches twice for the depth.  It turned out a little long and I had to trim away about 3/4 inch from each end, so I’m not sure what the equation would be. Maybe some of you mathematicians can straighten me out on that! Lol. Anyway, because I matched the center of the strip (that will become the bottom) with the center of one side, it worked out.

Stitch along both long sides first, then you can better work the corners of the bottom of the bag.

This is how the finished bottom looks.

 

 

For the strap, decide how long you want it and add another 4 inches on each end (total of 8 inches longer). Cut that length  x about 3 inches wide (?). So, I think mine was 40 inches x 3 inches, total. When I put the ends of the strap down in the bag, I put 4 inches of each end inside the bag for strength. (See more directions below.)

In making the strap, I had to cut two pieces and sew them together because my length was too long for the fabric I had. I hemmed the ends (turned over the edge of the ends 1/2 inch, once), overlapped them, and sewed them together.  At this point, your fabric is all still wrong side up. It won’t matter that the raw hems are visible because you will end up folding it lengthwise—so, the raw edges won’t show.

Next, I sewed the side hems (turned over the edge 1/2 inch, once), for the long length. Then, I folded the long pieced-together strap lengthwise and sewed down both edges.

Stick the ends of the strap down into the sides of the bag—through the opening between the outside seam and the end of the zipper. My zipper is 9 inches, the bag is about 13 inches wide,  Because of its thickness, I hand sewed the strap into place.

The lining: I used more of the shower curtain that I used for linings on my other bags. Cut out two rectangles the same size as your bag, plus a  1-inch seam allowance for the top—as you will turn it over twice to hide the raw edge inside the second fold—and,  1/2-inch seam allowances all around the other three sides. Face right sides together—you want the pretty side to be inside. Sew the top hem (turn over twice), then stitch around the other three sides—1/2 inch from the outer edge. The unfinished edges will remain on the outside. I zigzagged the edges to help keep them from unraveling.

Stuff the liner down into the bag and sew the top of the liner to the inside top of the bag, just below the zipper.. I machine stitched as much as I could but had to hand sew in difficult-to-reach places around where the strap is attached.

I added a strip of fabric just inside—on the top of the liner, to ease the color transition.

I wanted a transitional piece to visually ease the shift from the outer upholstery to the liner. So I sewed in (at the top) a strip of fabric that goes more with the outer upholstery into the top inside. This is optional.

Now, your bag is complete!

You can use as is, or add a little string of beads or a charm on your zipper pull.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Finished dimensions:

From the tip-top of the strap to the bottom of the bag: 36 inches.

The bag itself: 16 1/2 inches tall x 12 inches wide.

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Skirt + Skirt=Ruffled Gypsy Maxi

Hey!

We’ve had some pretty chilly temps in central Florida this week: Here, in Apopka, FL, we had two nights in a row of about 31 degrees F, with heavy white frost on the ground and rooftops—only warming into the low 50s. That’s COLD for us Floridians!

On Wednesday, January 3, 2018, this 6-inch snowman was made in St. Petersburg, FL!

I heard reports of snow and a 6-inch snowman! When I looked it up online, I saw that St Pete and near Titusville—both in central Florida, had a little snow!

Thank God, in Florida, it doesn’t stay cold! Today it’s in the low 70s and “sprinkley.” It’s forecast for 80 degrees tomorrow with the weekend back to 40 for the low. That’s the way it is in winter, here.

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Around Christmastime, I was pleased to make these photos of fog as I had early morning runs to feed a horse (Cindy’s Critter Care).

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Teddy in a bag.

My kitty Teddy says, “hey!”

Any “kitty people” out there  know how they love bags! 😀

 

 

 

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This tut, in a way,  is a continuation of Create a Renaissance Top from a blouse and a vest! because  I made them at the same time and they make an outfit. 

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I started with two skirts made in India …one short, one long.

Both are of very thin fabric. The short one has a lining.

I was elated that they went so well together, color-wise! —with several color matches.  😀

I’d seen on Pinterest—and pinned them on my skirts board—this idea of what I call “horizontal tucks.” I really liked the look—all ruffled and puffy! I envisioned putting the two together, and shortening the long skirt by sewing many randomly-placed horizontal tucks, accomplishing two things at the same time: shortening the skirt and adding all those wonderful puffs! 🙂

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Remove the waistband from the long skirt:

The first thing is to cut off the long skirt’s waistband. Mine was very large with a drawstring waist, so it had lots of gather. After the  band was off, it needed to be gathered a lot to fit the width of the bottom of the lining of the short skirt.

Start pinning the two skirts together:

Pin the top of the long skirt to the bottom of the short skirt lining, starting with the sides: I matched the left side seams, pinned, and, then, matched  the right side seams, and pinned.

Pin together the center point between those pins on the one skirt to the center point between the pins on the other skirt. Keep pinning the center points together until the pins are fairly close together.

Then, as you are sewing the one onto the bottom of the other, gather it in between the pins as you sew.

I sewed around twice.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Now, for the fun part:

Lay out the combined skirt.

By this point, it is very long. Start making random horizontal tucks—that is, parallel to the bottom of the skirt. But, you can make some of them  diagonal. It’s not scientific—you don’t need to measure or pin. Just grab some skirt and sew across it…but don’t let it bunch up…be smooth.

Make different-sized tucks. Large tucks make it “poofier” and takes up more length. Just keep at it. You can start near the top of the bottom skirt. Make your tucks several inches long. Then, grab a tuck in a new spot and sew across several inches.

Lay it out each time to gauge where it needs another tuck.

That’s it. Just keep tucking until your length is right and you like the big poofs of skirt ballooning out randomly.

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Create a Renaissance top from a blouse and a vest!

 

Hey!

Sweet Memories photo restoration

How’ve you been? …I’ve missed y’all!

Wow! It’s a new year! …Time passes so quickly!

Happy 2018!!

I’ve been working hard to create a new and improved experience for y’all when you come to DIY Bohemian!

My new site is more organized so you can find stuff easily.

You can look at My Style Gallery and, hopefully, my outfits will spark your imagination and give you ideas on how you might dress to fit your own personality!

You can go directly to see my tutorials in categorized departments! Just cruise around the site and check it out. 🙂

In the Apopka, FL, area: Cindy’s Critter Care

Meantime, here’s a new tut on a cute renaissance top.

Let’s make the new DIY Bohemian even better and more fun than ever…together! 😀

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Let’s face it: Sometimes choosing to re-fashion is a last-ditch effort to save something you still like, but in it’s original state, is just not really wearable anymore!

I’ve had both the blouse and the vest for a while and enjoyed them both. However, the blouse—being smocked with skinny elastic—stretched out over time.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I had already done a lot to this blouse to make it my own:

It was originally a light blue and I painted it lavender—yep, I painted it…with water-diluted craft paint! (Be sure to heat set it after it dries—either with an iron or in the dryer.)

Then, I painted some lace—also, some strips of cloth for the fluted part on the upper sleeves…and decorated it! 😀

Then, finally, I added beading (seed beads).

Yeh! Lol. In that period of my life, I had a lot of time on my hands!

On the vest, I added the lace and put on new gold buttons. Vintage pins add an extra touch.

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Now, for this tut:

Follow DIY Bohemian on Pinterest! Be inspired! Get lots of ideas on style on many, many boards!

Cut off the sleeves from the blouse. Instead of ripping out seams, I did it the easy way: Just cut above the shoulder seams, leaving enough room for the seam allowance. Not only is it easier, this way, you won’t have to worry about the gathering if it’s a puffed sleeve. 🙂

My vest is a little out of the usual, as its arm holes are smaller than the average vest’s arm holes. They were just the right size to connect sleeves!

Sew the sleeves to the vest, inside the arm holes, with right sides of each, together, so that when your new garment is right-side out, the right sides of each will be out.

Cut off the bottom of your original blouse, the length of which depends on how much of it you want to go below your vest.

If your blouse has no opening, as mine didn’t, you’ll need to cut it down the front, fold the raw edge under 1/8 inch, twice (so the raw edge is inside the second fold over)—for the seam, and sew it down.

Sew the bottom portion of your blouse  to the bottom of the vest. As you sew it on, it will be overlapped in the front along with the vest that is overlapped for the buttons.

Sew on snaps ( I used five) to hold the bottom of the blouse closed. Snaps are not my faves! I had to re-do a few of them. Make sure both sides of each snap match, so it falls smoothly and doesn’t bunch up.

Lastly, measure out the width around the bottom of the vest—all the way around the vest, including the “V” in the front, allowing also for the overlap—and double that measurement.

Cut out that length of tulle (mine was two yards long x 8 inches wide). In the tulle, cut out points along the bottom—so, the bottom is an uneven, random zig-zag.

Sew the tulle to the bottom of the vest in front of the blouse part. Pin it at intervals and sew, gathering between the pins as you sew, until you get it attached all the way around.

That’s it!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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